Pentovar lens user manual.output.pdf Pentovar lens user manual.output.pdf
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Pentaflex 16mm technical data.output.pdf Pentaflex 16mm technical data.output.pdf
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Dismantle:  The Pentaflex 16 left side cover can be removed by removing four screws visible on the casing.  Once the cover is removed, most of the cogs can be examined.  To manually move the cogs by hand, a film cassette has to be inserted into the body, or simply rotate and engage the cassette lock.  To test if the motor runs, attach to a 12 volt motorcycle battery.  

Lubrication:  This particular camera, while running, had trouble maintaining a regular speed, fluctuating regardless of the motor speed setting.  After opening the casing, and lubricating with “Singer machine” oil, a very light viscosity oil suited for low load and speed applications, the camera was able to maintain what appeared to be very constant speed.

Dry Run Camera: Inserting a loaded film cassette, gently push the cassette into the top of the camera body, through the two "trap doors" on top of the casing.  Once the cassette is firmly seated, rotate the winder clockwise until the white dot is at the top, as per below picture, and the cassette moves forward slightly and audibly clicks into place.  To remove, simply rotate the winder anti-clockwise until the white dot is at the bottom, as per below picture, and the cassette moves backwards slightly.  Pull the cassette out of the camera body.

PENTAFLEX 16 Links can be found on the main Mishkin Productions site, HERE

Note: It is worth noting that this camera has two names.  The original VEB factory designated the camera Pentacon AK16.  Later, under the DDR, the camera's name was changed to Pentaflex 16.  Parts between the two models are interchangeable, and essentially the only differences appear to be cosmetic.  Pentacon AK16's are black, Pentaflex 16's are silver coloured.

Note: As with all equipment such as old cameras, a qualified service person is ideally the first stop when owning a camera.  If, however, a person is moderately confident and not heavy handed, basic maintenance will assist in keeping the camera running long enough for you to enjoy using it and then save up money to get it serviced.

                        CAMERA MOTOR / TRIGGER
Although the Pentaflex 16 was sold with a specific cable to connect the motor with a battery pack, if this is not available a substitute can be easily fashioned with widely available automotive crimp connectors.
Once the motor is locked into the camera body, this button, once pushed in, will run the camera.  To lock the camera in the "run continually" position, push in and slide up.  To release, slide the button down and release.
To ensure correct connection to a power source, ensure that the same wire connecting to "positive" on a battery, is the same wire connected to the positive indicated here.

The Pentaflex 16 was produced for use with three types of film cassette, 30, 60, and 122 meter.  Or 100, 200, or 400ft.  Most commonly available is the 100ft cassette.  The 100ft may be best considering some labs may only accept 100ft loads for processing.  Obviously larger labs will take 200 and 400ft loads. 
To remove the film guide and pressure plate, rotate the small tab to unlock the film guide.  Gently lift the guide upwards to remove.
Installation is the reversal of removal, be sure the film guide is sitting flat, do not force installation.
To open the arms for ease of loading film, simply push with your finger the two "arms" and they will click into the "open" position.
Once film is loaded, to move the two "arms" back into position, push down on both these buttons, and the "arms" will lock back into place.
The film guide contains a film pressure plate, two springs and a screw.  They are not stainless steel and are susceptible to rust.  In this picture, the pressure plate poles are rusted and will prevent the plate moving up and down smoothly, failing to firmly hold the film against the camera film gate. Removing the rust is difficult as the metal is fairly weak and the poles will break off.  Replace the guide with a better condition one or fabricate a repair.
To advance the film cassette rollers manually, for instance to ensure smooth threading of the film, use a small screwdriver or pen to push the indicated button in.  
The button is spring loaded, so releasing the pressure, locks the film cassette.  This button is automatically pushed in when the cassette is inserted into the camera body.

There are four screws that hold the side casing in place.  When replacing, ensure the casing sits securely, with no possible light leakage
The two arrows indicated areas where lubrication can be applied.  As stated earlier, lubricate sparingly with correct lubricant.
When the film cassette is not inserted, the interior cog mechanisms cannot be moved.  

When the film cassette is inserted, the cog lock disengages, enabling manual movement of interior cog mechanisms.  Turning the film cassette handle clockwise without the cassette inserted, will also disengage the drive cogs.
Worm gears and cogs under the side motor mount, at the base of the camera.  Lubricating where the motor directly interfaces with the camera mechanisms is the best place to lubricate.  Excessive lubrication can be detrimental.
If the "synchromesh" lens diaphragm gearing is stiff, placing one drop of light viscosity oil in the gear grooves will help.

if the eyepiece is difficult to adjust, it will need lubrication.  Removing the small grub screw, as indicated, will enable the locking ring to be undone.
Once the locking ring is undone, place a few drops of oil into the cavity.  The grub screw has to line up with the holes of the thread in the cavity.  

The shutter dial or physical opening timings of the shutter will need to be adjusted if cog teeth have broken off or the shutter dial rotates freely.
If the shutter dial has "free play" or slack, possibly the grub screw has become loose causing the dial to not correspond to the correct shutter position.  By turning the shutter to the fully closed position, then tightening the grub screw indicated, then the dial can be adjusted to be correct.  Start the adjustment on either 0 degrees or 180 degrees.
Loosening the grub screw enables you to position the dial correctly corresponding to the correct shutter position.

The small dial exerts tension on the shutter angle dial, making it easier or harder to turn the dial.

This cog drives the shutter. To adjust the time the shutter exposes the film gate, remove the small circlip, and lift the cog just enough to advance or retard the gold cog.
Like many cameras, light from the eyepiece can get onto the film.  For this the eyepiece shutter is open when the film gate shutter is closed, and closed when the gate shutter has exposed the film gate.  If the shutter needs to be adjusted manually, the above eyepiece shutter is at the correct position corresponding to the position of the gate shutter.
The above position of the shutter corresponds to the eyepiece shutter.  If both shutters are not synced, then stray light can get onto the film.


In the event of having to manually correct the camera's shutter dial and shutter, using the below pictures may assist in "calibrating" the correct openings.
0 Degree shutter opening
30 Degree shutter opening
60 Degree shutter opening
120 Degree shutter opening
150 Degree shutter opening
180 Degree shutter opening
The following YouTube video details the mechanisms of the variable shutter on the Pentacon AK16/Pentaflex 16.  The original link is:

With either the film cassette or cassette locking dial engaged, and the camera refuses to run, then a drive cog could be jammed or broken.  Or, the camera motor activates one of the drive mounts, but not the other one, then a cog could be damaged or broken.
Remove these 4 screws.  gently lift of the side motor mount.  On the underside of the mount are small steel guides, so when removing do not prise off or wiggle.  Attempt to raise the mount slowly if difficult to remove.
The side motor mount has been removed.  The main drive cog can be examined.  Be aware it is made of Bakelite material and can damage easily if care is not taken.  Examine the the cog for missing teeth. 
The bottom cog connects to the camera base motor mount.  The middle small cog connects to the motor when mounted to the side mount.  The top cog connects to the large drive cog. Remove the small circlip to slide  the cog off it's mount.
The cog that connected to the camera base motor mount was partially rounded off or missing several teeth.  This caused the camera drive motor to only run the camera via the side mount.  These cogs are Bakelite material, and as such easily damaged if a person attempts to force the camera to run without a motor, and the drive lock still engaged.  If one cog fails, the motor mount can be placed back onto the camera "up side down" to utilise the side motor mount option.  But the base motor mount cannot be used.