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Mishkin Productions "Using 16mm" - Many handy links to Pathe cameras

Pathe Webo "M" Super 16mm or 9.5mm camera.
This particular camera had a couple of issues when i received it.  The film take up cog was not turning, so the film would simply build up in the chamber until a big spaghetti mess occurred.  The camera also appeared quite noisy, even for it's age.  I found the user manual online and it can be securely downloaded via the above link.  The user manual is vital in learning about the camera's maintenance requirements.

Lubrication:   Prospective D.I.Y lubrication should be researched well, as some cameras have very specific requirements, requiring specific oil and/or grease.  For most of the camera maintenance i have done i use “Singer machine” oil, a very light viscosity oil suited for low load and speed applications, commonly used for sewing machines. 

Note: As with all equipment such as old cameras, a qualified service person is ideally the first stop when owning a camera.  If, however, a person is moderately confident and not heavy handed, basic maintenance will assist in keeping the camera running long enough for you to enjoy using it and then save up money to get it serviced.

Getting Started: Removing the film chamber cover by rotating the small locking latch and gently pull away from the camera.  Do a visual inspection of the chamber.  Are the screws damaging? This could indicate another person has opened the camera, perhaps to repair the current issue? Is there a greasiness to the chamber? Too much oil and lubricant could indicate someone went overboard trying to fix something.  
CAUTION! When working on a spring winding camera always ensure the spring is run down entirely.  Not only is it potentially dangerous to work on anything with a coiled spring inside, the camera motor accidental running a few hundred frames could mess up your marking needed for reassembly. 

Manual

 
 
REMOVING FILM CHAMBER BASE PLATE
Remove these four screws and gently pull the front towards you.  


Before undoing the indicated screws check the function of the various items: film advance cogs should move freely without stiffness or binding.  The film remaining lever arm should be smooth in action.


When pulling the front away from the camera do so on a flat surface and remove in line with the camera, not to the side, this will help leave the engaging cogs in the correct position



This image shows the main gears, wire belt and film take up cog. The ! image indicates a cog that is not secured at the top. If the camera was to be run with the film chamber base plate removed, this cog will fly out and potentially get jammed deep in the camera body. The Danger image indicates a gear that directly controls the shutter rotation. Do not move this gear. 



Once the front is removed you can see the shutter, far right arrow, the hard to replace pelicle or tiny sheet of glass, left arrow.  The Danger image indicates the shutter cog, do not move it... Doing so will put the shutter out of sync with the gears in the camera body. Use a small ball of blue tack or similar against the shutter as a way of preventing accidental movement.  If the shutter disc is moved out of position, or the pull-down mechanism moved.... both of which are very likely.. see below on how to time the shutter. 


The picture on the left indicates the film pressure arm in closed position. As per the curved arrow, this pressure arm swings up to facilitate cleaning.  In the open position the featured screws can be removed to access the pellicle or small viewing glass slides incase they are broken. Apparently microscope slides can be used to replace the original glass.


ADJUSTING/CALIBRATING THE SHUTTER 

When the front of the camera is disassembled, it is very likely that the various gears and cogs will move and the shutter assembly will be out of timing to the pull-down claw.  This Pathe's pull-down claw and shutter are separately geared in the assembly, and when installed in the camera, run off the same central gear spindle.  It is important to ensure the pull-down claw and shutter are in the correct position before re-inserting the shutter assembly back into the camera.  A good way to test if your adjustment is accurate is to manually run pen marked film or leader through the camera gate.  While watching the film gate from the front of the camera, you should not see the marked film move while the shutter is open.  Trial and error. 

Below is an animated GIF that portrays the shutter and pull-down claw principle.  Almost every cine camera employs the same design, if the adjustment is out, resulting film image will be smeared. GIF animation cutesy of: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_disc_shutter
Moviecam_schematic_animation.gif Moviecam_schematic_animation.gif
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From the side view of the shutter assembly, you can rotate the pull-down claw mechanism into various positions.  I have found, while timing my Pathe's shutter, that the above pull-down claw being positioned with a 1 mm gap, as per the picture, and the following shutter position, that the Pathe has good shutter timing.

Once pull-down claw position has been set, now set the shutter disc to the same position in the picture.  I have added a diagram to clarify.  Once both are set in position, gently re-insert into the camera body, re-tighten the screws.  Next, test the shutter timing by setting the camera run switch to 'continuous' and manually turn the film advance cog in the film chamber.  Looking at the pull-down claw emerge and withdraw as the shutter revolves, should clearly indicate good timing.  If not satisfied, re-do the process by altering the shutter position. 
      
DISMANTLING & CLEANING FILM REEL COGS 

Cleaning the Drive Wire: Having removed the film chamber base plate, you can gently remove the drive wire cable from around the geared cogs and clean it. In the instance of this camera someone had lubricated things with too much enthusiasm and as such the parts that relied on friction were to lubricated to work.  In this case the wire cable needs lubricant cleaned off it. For this procedure I used a folded paper towel and window cleaner sprayed onto the towel.  I then slowly ran the cable through the folded towel.  You do not need to remove the film reel cogs to clean the drive wire.  Only remove the film reel cogs if they are not turning easily and require cleaning.

This image indicates the removal of the top film reel cog. Undo the screw on top of the cog first, then undo the second screw visible from outside the film chamber to remove the cog. Be careful dismantling the cog as the small parts have a very specific order. Photograph the order for re-assembly.

This picture indicates the film take-up cog.  Undoing the top screw enables the cog to be dismantled. Similarly, to the other cog, the small parts have to be re-assembled in strict order. The indicated circlip does not need to be removed, if you are just cleaning the camera. The left arrow indicates a very small pawl, or hook. This has to be removed carefully in case it falls into the depths of the camera (a very bad thing)


This picture portrays a side view of a cog with the small pin. This pin sits snugly in the hole in the pawl. During re-assembly great care has to be taken to get the pin in the hole.

This picture indicates the positioning of the pawl. If the pawl is placed incorrectly, ie: backwards, then the take-up cog will not ‘take-up’ the exposed film.


At the base of the cog spindle, take care re-assembling the washers. They have to fit around the spindle shoulder precisely or the other parts will sit higher and when the final screw is tightened the cog will jam solid.

This picture indicates, as per the top arrow, how the top of the spindle should be flush with the cog. If the cog sits higher, start again.


The below image indicates the cogs and holes in the film chamber base plate that need to line up for the base plate to be screwed back into place. Each cog will have a small amount of play so giving the base plate a few wiggles during re-assembly is needed for the base plate to sit properly. Gently moving the main film advance cog on the base plate will help re-engage the cogs. Each lettered cog or hole coresponds to the other.




The image on the right indicates the vertical cog spindle that actuates the shutter cog. In all likelihood this spindle will not need removing. If clogged with dirt, clean it gently. Lubrication of the spindle need only occur via the oil hole as indicated in the above picture. 

The arrow in the picture above indicates where lubricant can be applied to the shutter spindle (minimally)

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