Canon 814/1014/1218 repair

Centrifugal motor AK16 with adjustable speed

An engine of AK 16 has the problem that it runs irregularly and has dropouts. One cause may be the contacts in the lower part of the motor, which are worn down by the operation. Most of these contacts have partially burned down, so you have to see if they are still to save or spare parts are needed. Spare parts are unlikely to be available. There can of course be other causes that are not discussed here

For testing, the engine must be disassembled in the lower part.The following tools are required for this: various small slotted screwdrivers of the highest quality, small pointed flat-nose pliers, sufficient light, magnifying glass, larger work surface, Cleaning fluid, eg isopropanol (alcohol),multimeter, if possible, laboratory power supply with display of power consumption camera lubricant.

Note: I disassembled an AK16 motor following the above instructions and managed to get it back together and running and I can honestly say the instructions are great, but it is a complete bastard of a job!  I should have just bought another motor online... But if you are desperate, you have come to the right resource for the job.  Good luck you poor bugger....(Editor)

All information and pictures reproduced courtesy of: 
Thomas Sadewasser https://www.vesab.de/wpvesab/tag/ak-16  

Other very informative pages on the same website also detail areas such as:
Film Camera Speed Check, Inserting Film, Pentacon Camera Info, and Renewing Camera Leather.

The lower cover plate does not need to be unscrewed 
Loosen two screws [highlighted area] - once near setting 12 and then at about 24
Attention! Continue reading
When pulling apart the engine and end cap, proceed very slowly until a spring comes out ... 
The end cap is clearly filthy inside 
With a little alcohol, the residues can be removed - inside is the driver for the inner cap to see
This spring [highlighted area] is installed on both sides of the engine and bounces off in a high arc if it is not removed  Note: The small screw above the sliding button is screwed into a small nut on the inside of the aluminium insert.  It is a bugger to remove, and even harder to put back!  You will need a very small pair of needle nose pliers, like midget size! (Editor)
Remove the small spring and the release button - next to it the screw is unscrewed later 
Attention! be sure to remember the exact position before unscrewing this cap. So remember exactly "puncture" of the small metal part of the end cap in the corresponding hole. Also, note the exact position opposite the engine! Both are necessary to reach the exact speeds later. Note: Also check whether it is flush against the casing, mark the top in three staggered places so it can be stopped in only one position. (Editor)
Unscrew the connector and the two cables - in addition remove the two screws and nuts
Carefully thread the cable ends back so that the aluminum part can be removed. Remove the visible side bolt including nut on the other side.
Removed aluminum part and unscrewed ceramic part (2 screws with nuts) - pay attention to the washers. Note: I found that when I reached this stage I simply had to slide some fine sandpaper between the two contacts, saving me the effort of total disasembly. (Editor) 
The two contacts are in the aluminum and ceramic parts - unscrew both carefully 
Examine the contacts and sand off with enough material (meat) (use as fine a paper as possible - 400grit)
Reassemble and adjust contacts and ceramic part - must end up exactly on top of each other. Here in the picture the contacts deviate strongly from each other!
Reassemble and insert the cables carefully 
After installation, check the function of the resistor 
When reassembling, do not forget the springs and reinsert the rear inner cap exactly as it did when disassembling. Then check the engine and measure the current during operation. High currents from 2A indicate further problems. The correct speeds can only be checked by a tachometer.
 

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