Common 16mm camera faults
Note: Before using a camera try to find a user manual. A user manual will save lots of hassle and may prevent you accidentally damaging something. Consumer 16mm cameras are harder to service and repair, parts and knowledge is harder to find for particular cameras. Professional cameras are designed to be serviced, therefore parts and services can be found. Some faults are simple to fix, some are due to wear and tear, some are simply age and oxidisation. Shooting a film with a budget necessitates getting the camera serviced, consumer or professional.
Camera Lubrication: Prospective D.I.Y lubrication should be researched well, as some cameras have very specific requirements, requiring specific oil and/or grease. If you do not know what is needed, stop until you know. Be cautious when using automotive products, or petroleum based greases as some plastic parts may “melt” or soften. Lubrication of the cameras on this site were mostly done using a “Q” tip, or ear bud dipped in light oil like Singer sewing machine oil, and gently dabbed where needed. Excess oil was wiped off. Lubrication should only be used sparingly on areas where metal parts rub against each other, such as bearings or worm gears. Gears that only touch other gears via teeth will not need lubricant. Plastic gears or moving parts may require lithium grease, or similar. A good starting point: HERE
16mm ELECTRICALLY NON-RESPONSIVE
If the camera is totally non-responsive, even after charging the camera's battery pack, check or replace the battery pack. Also consider purchasing a power lead to run the camera off mains power.(if it can be) Next try the battery pack contacts on the camera body. Next look for a fuse, usually inside the camera body. If all else fails: consider seeking the services of a qualified technician.
16mm POOR FILM TEST RESULTS
If film tests come back with poor results, consider the various causes:
The film is has scrapes (poorly loaded and scraping)
The image is blurred top to bottom (bad shutter sync)
Light contamination on film edge (poor light seal)
Film magazine noisy while filming (poorly loaded film)
Film is too dark, under exposed (poorly metered shot)
Film is too bright, over exposed (poorly metered shot)
Common Super8 camera faults
Note: Before using a camera try to find a user manual. A user manual will save lots of hassle and may prevent you accidentally damaging something. These generalised tips are not intended to cover most faults, the number of potential faults with any camera, across all the brands over 50 odd years is too numerous. Some faults are simple to fix, some are due to wear and tear, and some are simply age and oxidisation. Shooting a film with a budget necessitates testing the camera before hand, shoot a test roll. Get a backup camera too.
SUPER8 ELECTRICALLY NON-RESPONSIVE
If the camera is totally non-responsive to operation, then removing the hand grip and cleaning or replacing the affected electrical contact parts may return the camera to usable condition. A "dead" camera may be a simple fix.
CAMERA "RUNS ON"
If the camera fails to stop running once the trigger is applied, or does not stop until power is removed, or the camera is turned off manually, you may have a hard time fixing the problem. I have been unable to "cure" such a thing, other than running the camera a lot in an attempt to "un-gum" it.
If the outer lens, the one that can be cleaned, appears either to be "fogged" or scratched, removal and either cleaning or replacement is relatively simple.
If all other functions on the camera work, but the zoom motor fails to operate, it could either be a jammed cog, a shaft needing lubrication, or a seized zoom motor.
If the zoom motor works, but all other electrical parts do not, do not disassemble the hand grip, as current is getting through. You either have a circuitry problem or a seized main motor. Repairing such faults is expensive, and may not be possible depending on your location.
CAMERA "SCREETCH" OR NOISY VIBRATION
If the camera, while running, makes a "screetching" noise from within the casing, yet all functions appear to be working normally, do not attempt to dismantle the camera looking for the source of the vibration, unless you know for sure the cause. I have attempted to find the source of this noise to no avail.
NOTES:
Purchase the proper tools before dismantling any camera. Small screwdrivers can be bought cheaply from electrical parts stores. Use a foam pad to rest the camera on, never use a vice. Always keep piles of screws separate. Never force anything, just keep looking for the right way to remove it. When attempting repairs, always be careful when using sharp tools as these cameras use a lot of Aluminium which scratches easily.
LIABILITY DISCLAIMER:
This website has been created as a guide in the disassembly and possible repair of Canon Super8 and 16mm cameras. It should be kept in mind that these cameras are quite old, and their condition will vary, as their chance of being repaired. If a person follows the instructions on this website, and their camera still fails to function, I cannot be considered liable, as the number of possible faults in a non-functioning 20 to 50 year old camera is far more numerous than the simple tips I have posted here. If people would like to either add pictures describing a repair, or believe I have missed something, please feel free to email me at: mishkin.film@gmail.com